How to Crochet a Beginner-Friendly Cardigan: Free Pattern

Pin it now, make later!

Learn how to crochet a beginner-friendly cardigan with my free step-by-step pattern and a video tutorial in right and left-handed versions. The Nova cardigan is the perfect way to level up your skills while creating something cosy and stylish. Even if you’re a beginner, this project is totally within reach!

In this blog post, I’ll walk you through the steps to crochet a beginner-friendly cardigan, complete with simple stitches, straightforward construction, helpful tips and available in 9 sizes. Whether you’re crafting your first wearable or just want a relaxing project, this cardigan will become a favourite in your handmade wardrobe. Grab your yarn and hook—it’s time to get started!

Table of Contents

    Materials & Tools

    About The Yarn

    Sirdar Hayfields Bonus Aran Tweed comes in 400g balls, this yarn is perfect for crocheters eager to make garments, especially cardigans and jumpers. I love the subtle flecks of colour that add a beautiful tweed texture to your projects. Machine washable and made from a marvellous mix of wool, acrylic, and viscose, making this yarn warm and durable.

    Colour Inspiration

    I have used the colour Stormcloud. However, I’ve shared some of my favourites from the colour pallet below:

    Sizing and Yarn Quantities

    The Nova Cardigan is an oversized fit with up to 15cm (6inch) positive ease.

    Measurements after light blocking.

    Length (including 5cm (2inch) ribbing) – 30 (30, 32, 32, 34) (34, 35, 35, 35) inches,
    76 (76, 81, 81, 86.5) (86.5, 89, 89, 89) cm.

    Width – 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) (28, 30, 32, 34) inches, 45.75 (50.75, 55.75, 61, 66) (71, 76, 81, 86.25) cm.

    Circumference – 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) (56, 60, 64, 68) inches, 91.5 (101.5, 111.75, 122, 132) (142.25, 152.50, 162.50, 172.75) cm.

    Neckline – 3.5 inches – all sizes, 8.75 cm – all sizes.

    Armhole Depth – 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) (9, 9.5, 10, 10.5) inches, 16.5 (17.75, 19, 20.25, 21.5) (22.75, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm.

    XSSMLXL
    To fit chest size76cm/
    30in
    86cm/
    34in
    96cm/
    38in
    106cm/
    42in
    117cm/
    46in
    Approx. Yardage13251460169018302070
    Balls
    (400g)
    22223
    2X3X4X5X
    To fit chest size127cm/
    50in
    137cm/
    54in
    147cm/
    58in
    157cm/
    62in
    Approx. Yardage2225245026052760
    Balls
    (400g)
    3333

    All measurements are approximate.

    Gauge & Size

    13 sts and 8 rows measures over 10cm X 10cm (4in X 4in) measured using Treble Crochet.

    Gauge Swatch

    Save some time and use the pocket as your gauge swatch!
    See below for the pocket instructions and choose the size you are making.

    Pattern Notes

    • Written in UK terms but switchable to US terms below.
    • This pattern is made up by creating the main body of the cardigan from side to side. The arms and cuff will be crocheted onto the main body to minimise seaming. You will finish by adding ribbing to the bottom and front opening using the join as you go method.
      The number references for each size will be listed as follows: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

    Pattern Support

    The fastest way to get pattern support is to ask in our dedicated facebook group for Bella Coco Crochet patterns. This is the best place for you to connect with other crocheters.

    Please note, if you wish to change and adapt this pattern in any way, this must be done at your own exploration and we cannot offer assistance with this.

    Convert Pattern Terms

    Here you can quickly switch between UK and US crochet terms. This will make following the pattern easier as all terms will be converted to your preferred version.

    Terms & Abbreviations

    Stitch(s): st(s)

    Slip Stitch(s): ss(s): Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop on hook.

    Chain(s): ch(s): Yarn over, pull through loop on the hook.

    Double Crochet(s): dc(s): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.

    Back Loop Only: BLO: Working into the back loop only of the stitch.

    Special Stitches


    Stacked Double Crochet(s): sdc(s): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops. Insert hook into the post of the stitch which is furthest away from the hook. Yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.

    Double Crochet two together: Dc2tog: Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have two loops on the hook. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops

    Treble Crochet(s): tr(s):
    Yarn over, insert into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, you will have three loops on the hook. Yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.

    EBOOK promotion for the Bella Coco How to Crochet - a Handy Reference Guide eBook.
    How to Crochet – A Handy Reference Guide eBook

    Unsure of the differences between UK and US terms? Need a refresher on how to do your crochet stitches? In my ā€˜How to crochet: A handy reference guide’ EBook I help you with all of these terms and you can always have them to hand! You will also get exclusive access to free video instructions. You can find my EBookĀ HERE.

    Pin For Later

    Crochet AD-FREE PDF Patterns

    Mini Nova Cardigan

    Free Pattern: Crochet Cardigan in Nine Sizes

    You are viewing this pattern in UK terms.

    Pattern

    Main Body (made in one piece): Part one

    Ch 183 (183, 197, 197, 209) (209, 217, 217, 217)

    Row 1: Working in the back bumps of the ch, tr in third ch from hook (missed chs count as st) and each ch across. Turn. <182 (182, 196, 196, 208) (208, 216, 216, 216) sts>

    Rows 2-14 (16, 18, 20, 22) (24, 26, 28, 30): Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    Neckline Split

    Row 15 (17, 19, 21, 23) (25, 27, 29, 31): Sdc in first st, tr in next 90 (90, 97, 97, 103) (103, 107, 107, 107) sts, leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. <91 (91, 98, 98, 104) (104, 108, 108, 108 sts>

    XS

    Rows 16-21: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    S

    Rows 18-23: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    M

    Rows 20-25: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    L

    Rows 22-27: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    XL

    Rows 24-29: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    2X

    Rows 26-31: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    3X

    Rows 28-33: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    4X

    Rows 30-35: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    5X

    Rows 32-37: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    Main Body: Part two

    Do not fasten off your yarn, you will now be making a chain before moving onto the next rows.

    Chain 92 (92, 99, 99, 105) (105, 109, 109, 109)

    Row 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) (32, 34, 36, 38): Working in the back bumps of the ch, tr in third ch from hook (missed chs count as st) and each ch and st across. Turn. <182 (182, 196, 196, 208) (208, 216, 216, 216) sts>

    XS

    Rows 23-35: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    S

    Rows 25-39: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    M

    Rows 27-43: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    L

    Rows 29-47: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    XL

    Rows 31-51: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    2X

    Rows 33-55: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    3X

    Rows 35-59: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    4X

    Rows 37-63: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    5X

    Rows 39-67: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    Fasten off and sew in ends.

    Sleeves

    Set up: The sleeves of the cardigan are going to be crocheted straight onto the main body of your cardigan. this means you will be working into the final row of the main body and the underside of the chain from row 1. Locate the centre on each side as shown in Image A, count 25 (26, 27, 28, 29) (30, 31, 32, 33) sts either side of the centre and mark with a stitch marker.

    IMAGE A: Shows location of centre stitches on the main body of the cardigan.

    Row 1: With right side of work facing you, join with ss to first marked st. Work a sdc in first st, tr in each st to next marked st. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. <50 (52, 54, 56, 58) (60, 62, 64, 66) sts>

    Row 2-28: Sdc in first st, tr in each st across. Turn.

    Row 29: Dc in first st, dc2tog across until you have 1 st remaining, dc in
    last st. <26 (27, 28, 29, 30) (31, 32, 33, 34) sts>

    Cuff Ribbing

    Change to 4.5mm hook

    Chain 11

    Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook (missed ch does not count as st) and each st across. Ss in next 2 sts from the last row of the sleeve. Turn. <10 dc, 2 ss>

    Row 2: Skip 2 ss, BLOdc in each st across. Turn. <10 BLOdc>

    Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), BLOdc in first st and next 9 sts. Ss in next 2sts from the last row of the sleeve. Turn. <10 BLOdc, 2 ss>

    Repeat row 2 & 3 across.

    Time to Block

    Now is the time to steam block your work. Use blocking pins and mats to shape your work ensuring that each side is the same size.

    Seaming

    Fold the work in half bringing the seams of the arms together and wrong side facing outwards.
    With a strand of yarn and a darning needle, start at the bottom of the main body and whip stitch through both thicknesses. Once the body is seamed, continue along the underside of the arm and cuff.
    Fasten off and sew in ends.
    Repeat on the other side.

    Bottom Ribbing

    Turn the work right side out and turn ready to work on the bottom edge of the cardigan.

    With 5mm hook, join with a ss to the bottom left corner (bottom right if you’re left-handed)

    Set up row: Ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout) work 2dc in each row end across. Turn.

    Change to 4.5mm hook.

    Chain 11

    Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook (missed ch does not count as st) and each st across. Ss in next 2 sts from the set up row. Turn. <10 dc, 2 ss>

    Row 2:
    Skip 2 ss, BLOdc in each st across. Turn. <10 BLOdc>

    Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), BLOdc in first st and next 9 sts. Ss in next 2 sts from the set up row. Turn. <10 BLOdc, 2 ss>

    Repeat row 2 & 3 across

    Front Opening Ribbing

    With 5mm hook, join with a ss to the bottom right corner stitch of the bottom edging (bottom left if you’re left-handed).

    Set up row:
    Ch 1, dc in each stitch of the bottom ribbing and main body of the cardigan until you reach the neck opening. Rotate work and work 2 dc in each row end of the neck opening. Rotate work and dc in each st of the main body and bottom ribbing. Turn.

    Change to 4.5mm hook.

    Chain 6

    Row 1: Dc in second ch from hook (missed ch does not count as st) and each st across. Ss in next 2 sts from the set up row. Turn. <5 dc, 2 ss>

    Row 2: Skip 2 ss, BLOdc in each st across. Turn. <5 BLOdc>

    Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), BLOdc in first st and next 4 sts. Ss in next 2 sts from the set up row. Turn. 5 BLOdc, 2 ss>

    Repeat row 2 & 3 across.

    Fasten off and sew in ends.

    Pockets

    With 5mm hook.

    Row 1: Ch 24 (24, 24, 24, 27) (27, 27, 27, 27), working in back pump of ch, tr in 3rd ch from hook (missed chs count as st) tr in each st across. Turn. <23 (23, 23, 23, 26) (26, 26, 26, 26) sts>

    Row 2-12 (12, 12, 12, 14) (14, 14, 14, 14): Sdc, tr in each st across. Turn.

    Pocket Ribbing

    Set up row: Ch 1, dc in each st across. Turn.

    Change to 4.5mm hook.

    Chain 6

    Ribbing row 1: Dc in second ch from hook (missed ch does not count as st) and each st across. Ss in next 2 sts from the set up row. Turn. <5 dc, 2 ss>

    Row 2: Skip 2 ss, BLOdc in each st across. Turn. <5 BLOdc>

    Row 3: Ch 1, dc in first st and next 4 sts. Ss in next 2 sts from the last row of the pocket. Turn. <5 BLOdc, 2 ss>

    Repeat row 2 & 3 across.

    Fasten off and sew in ends.

    Attaching Pockets

    Place the pockets at the front bottom of the cardigan, the base of the pocket will sit just above the ribbing and the inner edge of the pocket will be roughly around 1 row in
    from the ribbing. Pin the pockets into place ensuring that they are the same on each side.

    With a strand of yarn and a darning needle, sew the pocket to the body of the cardigan using whip stitch.

    Repeat on other side.

    Sew in all ends.

    Video Tutorials

    Right-handed

    [adthrive-in-post-video-player video-id=”v3aGvX88″ upload-date=”2025-01-22T13:41:21.000Z” name=”Easy Crochet Cardigan Tutorial_1.mp4″ description=”null” player-type=”default” override-embed=”default”]

    Or watch on YouTube

    Left-handed

    [adthrive-in-post-video-player video-id=”2fgmxF1q” upload-date=”2025-01-22T14:04:58.000Z” name=”Nova Cardigan Tutorial LEFT HANDED.mp4″ description=”null” player-type=”default” override-embed=”default”]

    Or watch on YouTube

    Crochet Garments Patterns

    I hope you enjoyed making the Nova cardigan! I think you’ll also enjoy these beginner-friendly crochet wearables on the blog:

    I always love to see your makes so if you try any of my patterns or follow my stitch tutorials please tag meĀ @bellacococrochetĀ or use theĀ #bellacococrochet

    sarah-jayne
     
    KEEP ON making
    Don’t miss a thing! Sign up to our newsletter, grab a cuppa and find out about the latest posts and projects.
    Thanks! Please check your inbox (and junk) to confirm your subscription!


    Pin it now, make later!

    8 thoughts on “How to Crochet a Beginner-Friendly Cardigan: Free Pattern”

    1. Susan Mackenzie

      Thank you so much for the fabulous cardigan pattern. I am delighted with its simplicity but the finished garment looks awesome. I have some lovely lilac aran in my stash which has been waiting for the right pattern. This is it!!!
      Thank you once again, both for the pattern and the video
      Kind regards
      Sue

    2. Love the pattern. Your little one is quite the cute model. She looks good in the gold mini cardigan. I’ve just gotten BACK into crocheting after many years hiatus. Enjoying the many patterns available online. It’s really helpful to have a video to go along with the written instructions. It’s a lot of work for the bloggers but very much appreciated!

    3. This pattern looks great. I’m left handed and so appreciate your video! I am wondering if when you say length is 30 inches that means the 183 chain stitches should be 60 inches ? This is my first cardigan and want to get started correctly. Cheers, Lori

      1. Hi Lori, not necessarily, because the length of the finished garment will include how it hangs on your shoulders and also your tension. So it is approximately 30″ long when you have finished but you also have to factor in the space over the shoulders etc. So don’t worry about the length of the chain, just follow along and the pattern has been calculated with this weight of yarn and size of hook to end up about 30″ long to wear. Hope that helps!

    4. Annette Patterson

      Fabulous video! If I wanted to make it shorter, say to the waist or hip, how would you suggest calculating the number of stitches?

      1. BellaCocoTeam

        Hi Annette!
        The cardigan length is calculated in one piece – it is made by making one piece that starts at the back and reaches right over your shoulder and down the front – so the best way to shorten it, is to measure how long the whole piece should be, from back to front. Then you will need to calculate how many stitches per inch you will need – and this cardigan is written for aran weight yarn, so that is about 5 stitches per inch (average). So you measure how long that piece of crochet needs to be, and measure in inches – and then times that by 5.
        The only issue with doing this, is that none of the measurements in the pattern will work in the same way – you will have to work out where to split for the neck, and also where to put your sleeves in, because those measurements in the pattern are all calculated for the length of the cardigan as it has been written, so you will have to work out from the length you make, where you neck and sleeves need to go.
        Hope that helps!

    Leave a Reply to Susan Mackenzie Cancel Reply

    Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

    Scroll to Top